Tuesday, September 16, 2014

an unexpected vineyard

GRAPE BREAD
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Last year, this time around, we planted some grapevines in the garden.  Never would I have thought that one year later we'd be picking our first grapes off the plant. Black tiny berries of sweet, juicy nectar that need nothing but hands to pick and mouths to eat.

With my surprise the plant expanded quickly and vigorously, it now covers almost the whole wooden structure that supports its weight.  A beautiful green foliage and bouquets of deep purple strawberry grapes fall from above. What was initially supposed to be a shaded eating area has become our private little vineyard, if four grapevines in row can be defined as suchObviously nothing like the vineyards we've seen in the movie "The Good Year" with Russell Crow, but definately a miniature resemblance of that same feel of serenity and quaint.

Very few grapes came this year but plenty enough to feed the family with fresh, healthy, untreated fruit.  Next year, I'll probably be making jams and jelly and then the year after, who knows, maybe some wine.  

For now, I've attempted to make this bread.  Grape bread.
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This bread is soft, fragrant and releases a perfume of fall.  It's what you want to eat this period of time and is perfect to usher in the fall season.

All you need is a basic bread recipe.  Like this one here. Flatten the dough with your hands, de-seed some grape berries and spread them on top of the flattened dough.  Sprinkle with some raw sugar.  Roll the dough to form a rope, pinch the edges and fit the dough in a previously greased loaf pan.  Cover with some plastic film and let it rise, over night, in the fridge.  Remove the loaf from the fridge and let it rise at room temperature 1 hour before baking.  Place some grape berries on top of the loaf and sprinkle with more raw sugar.

Bake in a preheated oven for about 40 minutes.  Slice when the bread is cool.

This is excellent for breakfast, toasted and smothered with butter.

Oh...just out of curiosity, did you know that grape seeds are edible and full of antioxidants?
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Tuesday, September 2, 2014

pizza sfoglia

ZIA VINCENZA'S PIZZA SFOGLIA
Pizza Sfoglia
Zia Vincenza and I made a pizza sfoglia in my grandmother's old house. The house was locked up ever since 2009 when the earthquake took place in l'Aquila. It hasn't fallen apart, but nearly. Its kitchen, reign of the women in our family, strangely remained intact. It felt good to open the window and welcome the light back in.

After so many years, stepping into nonna's house touched me with a profound sense of emptiness that I still carry with me today.  Certainly not what we were used to when each summer, cousins, uncles, aunts and grandparents filled the house with laughs and good hearty meals. Nonetheless, in all its empitness, those memories are still there. Alive. Echoing across the walls, and now cracks of a home that was once our little kingdom of happy summer days.  

The women I've lost in my life, including my dear mother, were all there, in that very kitchen and in that very moment when zia Vincenza and I were making the pizza sfoglia.  I don't know why, but I felt they were there. Had it been the nostalgic feeling, or the consciousness of how time flies so quickly, I felt, in a moment of bliss, that they were all there.  I like to believe it's true.  I feel good if I believe it's true. I hope I'm not a lunatic :)
Pizza Sfoglia
Pizza Sfoglia
So this summer, I convinced my 92 year old aunt to teach me how to make pizza sfoglia in the kitchen where my nonna used to make hers. The task wasn't as easy as you may think. She doesn't go by the book, forget about the dose, it will never be the exact same. It's all by the eye, with the exception of a handful of this, a little bit of that, accompanied by a brief comment of encouragement "with some practice you'll get it right".  

If there's a food I can say that marks a memory in my childhood, this is probably it.  I grew up with this pizza sfoglia, first in Toronto with Zia Angelina's version, my grandmother's sister. Then, when I moved to Italy, it was my grandmother's version, and when she passed away, it was Zia Vincenza's version, my grandmother's cousin.  That's the history.  

All versions were good but also different at the same time.  I think it's that "handful of this and that" thing that gave the personal touch.
Pizza Sfoglia
Pizza SfogliaPizza Sfoglia
This traditional pizza sfoglia has origins in Campotosto, far back in time.  Nonna Elvira, my grandmother, always said, that her grandmother used to make it, so I'm guessing waaaaay back in time.  It's something you can't buy in a store, you need to have a grandmother from Campotosto that makes one for you. Uh!...or a friend like me, that can teach you how  :))

It was nice to see this little 92 years old lady, knead the dough with all her strength, just to show me how to make a pizza sfoglia. Thank you zia.  Pizza Sfoglia
What makes this pizza sfoglia so good is the use of lard, it can't be substituted in any way, it won't have the same flakiness and crispiness.  It will lose fragrance and the aroma will change.  I tried to make a healthier version using olive oil, it was a waste of time.  

Serve when it is warm, not hot, not cold.  It needs to rest about 10 minutes from when it is removed from the oven.

Don't cut it with a knife, break it with your hands.  Don't ask why.

Serve with anything that's cheese and cold cuts.  Typically it's served with pecorino cheese and mortadella from Campotosto.


Recipe - Pizza Sfoglia di Zia Vincenza 

500g flour
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp baking powder
1/2 cup of melted lard (shortening)
1 tbsp olive oil
a cup of cold water

Make a well in the flour and add the salt, olive oil, baking powder and a few tablespoons of cold water, add the water a little at a time, enough to gather the flour and form a dough similar to a pasta dough.  Knead until elastic and let it rest for 30 minutes.

Cut the dough in 8 pieces and roll out each piece with a pasta machine. Make 8 thin strips.

Lay each strip on the your working surface, slightly overlapping the edges of each so to form one full sheet.  Pour the melted lard on the pasta sheet and with a pastry brush spread the lard on the whole surface.

Roll the sheet longwise starting from the edge closer to you. Roll to form a cylinder shape, like a long snake.  Hold the cylinder shaped dough on each end and twist. Roll it once again, this time inwards, to form a flat spiral. Lightly poke with a fork, brush some more lard on the surface.

Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for approx. 30 minutes or until lightly golden.

Friday, August 1, 2014

Vegetables in a tray

rata


Vegetables in a Tray
A courgette, an aubergine, an onion, a ripe tomato…then some thyme and basil.  

Rub the herbs in your hands. Inhale.

Let the aroma inspire you.  Let go to an unreflective desire and create.   

Slice, trickle a thin stream of good olive oil, season to taste. 

Use your rubbed-herbed flavored hands like two big spoons.  

Toss and turn. 

Line them in a tray, nice and neat.  

Play.

Seven, eight, lay them straight.

Make good food. Eat good food.  

Use passion.

It always works well this way.


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